The Extraordinary City Of Paris - A Traveller's Guide

Paris needs no introduction, yet it constantly surprises those who think they know it. Beyond the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and Notre-Dame, there exists a city of extraordinary neighbourhoods, each with its own character, its own markets, its own preferred cafe. The Paris of the seasoned traveller is not the Paris of the postcard, and discovering the difference is one of travel's great pleasures.

The major museums deserve their reputation, but they require strategy. The Louvre is best approached with a plan: choose three or four works you want to see and navigate directly to them, then allow yourself to wander. The Musee d'Orsay, housed in a former railway station, holds the world's greatest collection of Impressionist art, and is best visited on Thursday evenings when it stays open late and the crowds thin. The Centre Pompidou offers not just modern art but one of the best views in Paris from its rooftop terrace.

But Paris's smaller museums are often more rewarding. The Musee de l'Orangerie in the Tuileries houses Monet's Water Lilies in two oval rooms designed specifically for the paintings, creating an immersive experience that is genuinely moving. The Musee Rodin, set in a beautiful garden, allows you to encounter The Thinker and The Kiss in a setting far more intimate than any crowded gallery. The Musee Carnavalet, recently renovated, tells the history of Paris through art, artefacts and period rooms, and entry is free.

The neighbourhoods are Paris's true treasures. The Marais, once the aristocratic heart of the city, now combines medieval architecture with fashionable boutiques, the Jewish quarter along Rue des Rosiers, and some of the best falafel outside the Middle East. Belleville and Menilmontant in the 20th arrondissement offer the multicultural Paris that tourists rarely see, with Chinese, North African and Vietnamese restaurants alongside street art and independent galleries. Canal Saint-Martin in the 10th is perfect for an afternoon walk, with its iron footbridges, tree-lined quays and the occasional ecluse where boats navigate the locks. If you are planning your next trip, you might also enjoy exploring dog-friendly travel destinations in France.

French food in Paris ranges from three-star temples of gastronomy to the humble bistro, and it is in the latter that Paris truly excels. A well-chosen neighbourhood bistro serving duck confit, a proper salade Nicoise or a simple steak-frites with a carafe of house wine remains one of the world's great dining experiences. Avoid restaurants within sight of major monuments and instead explore the side streets of the 5th, 11th or 14th arrondissements.

If you are visiting France with family, and particularly if you are travelling with a dog, it is worth knowing that the French are remarkably accommodating. Many restaurants, cafes and even some museums welcome well-behaved dogs, a cultural attitude that makes France one of the most pleasant countries in Europe for pet-owning travellers.